The whole point of this trip is to not arrive frazzled, so keep the first move simple: the Leonardo Express runs non-stop from Fiumicino to Roma Termini in 32 minutes, every 15 minutes, for around £12 (€14) one way. From Termini a short taxi or metro hop gets you to your base. If you land at Ciampino instead, a shuttle bus to Termini does much the same job. Book flights →

Base yourself in the centro storico, Monti or Trastevere — all three put you within walking distance of a day's sights, which is the single biggest anti-burnout decision you'll make. Drop your bags, resist the urge to sprint out, and let the city come to you. Search hotels →

The best-preserved building of ancient Rome is the gentlest possible first sight: you step in off the piazza, look up at the oculus, and you're standing under a 2,000-year-old dome. Entry is timed and costs around £6 (€7), and tickets are nominal — the name on the ticket must match your ID, so book in your own name. Fifteen unhurried minutes inside is plenty on a jet-lagged afternoon.

A two-minute walk from the Pantheon on Via degli Uffici del Vicario, Giolitti has been in the same family since 1890 and this parlour has been serving gelato since the 1930s — a proper Roman institution rather than a tourist trap, open late into the evening. Order at the till first, then take your ticket to the counter. It's the ideal low-effort treat to bridge the gap to dinner.

This is Rome's evening ritual and your reward for not overplanning: a slow, aimless wander. Drift from Piazza Navona with its Bernini fountains down to Campo de' Fiori, five minutes apart through the lanes, and just watch the city switch into evening mode. No tickets, no queue, no agenda.

Rome eats late, so 20:00 is barely early here. Pick a trattoria in the lanes between the two piazzas and order the Roman staples — cacio e pepe, carbonara, a plate of fried artichoke in season. Keep it unrushed and get to bed at a sane hour; tomorrow is the big one.