There are no direct flights from the UK, so you will most likely connect through Jakarta, Surabaya, Singapore or Kuala Lumpur into YIA, the airport out at Kulon Progo roughly 42km west of the city. The easiest way in is the airport train from the station opposite the terminal to Tugu Station in the centre, which takes around 40 minutes, or a metered taxi or pre-booked car if you are tired. This is a volcano-focused trip, so aim for the dry season of roughly April to October: the hikes are safer, the crater views far clearer, and the wet months of November to March bring cloud, mud and a higher chance of closures. Book flights →

Base yourself in or near the centre, within reach of Malioboro and the Kraton, so your first evening and the temple mornings are easy. Drop your bags and take it slowly after the travel. Search hotels →

Ease in with a wander down Malioboro, the city's long, busy main street of stalls, becak drivers and street musicians, ending near the old Beringharjo market and the Kraton walls. It is a gentle, atmospheric introduction that needs no planning.

Try gudeg, Yogyakarta's signature dish of young jackfruit slow-cooked in coconut milk and palm sugar, usually served with rice, egg and chicken. Any busy warung serving it will do for a first night; it is cheap, filling and unmistakably Jogja.